Lace fabric is practically synonymous with bridal designs. Women currently shopping for or who have purchased a dress will recall the flurry of fabric choices that open to them the moment lace is selected as an option.
Here’s the Eve in Eden crash course: all the basics you’ll need to distinguish Chantilly from cutwork, Tambour from tape and macrame from Mechlin.
For centuries, lace was manufactured exclusively by hand; entire cities economies were buoyed by the industry and regions lay claims to certain styles or signatures in the design of their lace. In 1768, John Heathcoat created the first lace-making machine and turned the industry on it’s head – handmade lace became a hobbyist’s project and industrial lace manufacture took the reins.
Lace exists in many varieties; the broad categories are needle lace, bobbin lace, crochet lace, knotted lace, knit lace and machine-made lace. Many modern wedding gowns employ antique (ie not machine-made) styles but are in fact machine made; finding a hand-made lace, even when shopping for a vintage dress, is uncommon. There are exceptions, though! Sonia Kasparian of Urchin Redesign, a Portland-based line of couture-level handmade gowns, jewelry and accessories sources and incorporates antique and vintage laces in her designs, available at Eden and through custom order!
Now, a short primer: needle lace falls into two broad categories which each contain their own subcategories: embroidered lace and cutwork lace. A few examples of embroidered lace:
Clockwise from top left: Teneriffe lace, Tambour lace, Reticella lace, Filet lace.
A few examples of cutwork lace:
Catherine Middleton’s royal wedding gown was made with Carrickmacross lace. Top right, another example of Carrickmacross lace. Bottom right, Battenburg lace.
Bobbin lace also comes in many forms: ancient, continental, point ground, and Guipure. A few examples of those:
First row: Antwerp lace, a type of ancient lace; Mechlin lace, a type of continental lace; blonde lace, a type of point ground lace. Second row: another example of blonde lace; Point de Venise lace, a type of Guipure lace; Chantilly lace, a type of continental lace.
Finally, a few examples of knotted lace, knit lace and crochet lace:
Clockwise from top left: tatted lace, a type of knotted lace; knit lace; macrame lace another type of knotted lace; and crochet lace.
Eve in Eden has many vintage lace gowns, veils and accessories available for purchase. View some of our selection here; to see it all, stop by the shop!
We debuted the first Look Book for Eve in Eden just a few weeks ago, and talented photographer Eric Rose has shared with us more images from that lovely day – enough for a second look at what’s to come from Eve in Eden. This collection of images is so filmic and reminds us of glamorous silent film era brides, a theme no doubt amplified by the beautiful theater in which these photos were taken. Enjoy!
This look book was shot at The Crystal Ballroom by photographer Eric Rose with models Annie Montgomery, Haley Robison and Lyla Rokoff. Art Direction by Cindy Rokoff. Styling and set design by Carlie Armstrong, Jesseca McCloskey, Brehan Todd and Marika Emerson. Hair by Jessica Adams, Makeup by Marta Heitz. Gowns by Urchin Redesign and Eve in Eden vintage. Jewelry by Acanthus, Ay Marieke, Brehan Todd, Demimonde, Jesseca Anne, Kiowa Rose and Sahlia. Shoes provided by Solestruck.
In a little under two years of business, Eden has quickly become a destination for locals and travelers seeking bespoke jewelry, opulent garments, dazzling perfumes and one-of-a-kind accessories and goods for the home. Cindy Rokoff, proprietress of Eden, is no stranger to retail – Eden is the fourth shop she has owned and that list is about to grow…
Eden is opening a bridal boutique! In early March, Eve in Eden: a Bridal Salon will open in a newly-renovated, annex-style space in the back of Eden at 221 NW 11th Ave. Rokoff saw the need for a non-traditional bridal boutique in Portland, one which offered a range of locally designed and vintage wares.
We seek opulent curiosities and creations with a regard for the unusual. The intertwined influence of history with the present yields a beautiful mix – our hand-curated selection offers something for everyone. Eve in Eden showcases a range of bridal fashion from the 1920s to the 1970s as well as gowns by beloved Portland-based designers. As at Eden, jewelry is a focus and the salon features exclusive bridal collections from many local jewelry artists. Accessories are key – heirloom-quality clutches, bags, fascinators and hair pieces vintage and new. Eve in Eden isn’t exclusive to brides – those hunting for a fancy frock or finishing touches for a special occasion will find plenty to pick from. Our staff is excited to share the honor of putting together ensembles for that most-special day, and many other occasions to come!
This look book was shot at The Crystal Ballroom by photographer Eric Rose with models Annie Montgomery, Haley Robison and Marika Emerson. Art Direction by Cindy Rokoff. Styling and set design by Carlie Armstrong, Jesseca McCloskey, Brehan Todd and Marika Emerson. Hair by Jessica Adams, Makeup by Marta Heitz. Gowns by Urchin Redesign and Eve in Eden vintage. Jewelry by Acanthus, Ay Marieke, Brehan Todd, Demimonde, Jesseca Anne, Kiowa Rose and Sahlia. Shoes provided by Solestruck.
We’re pleased to debut our second Eden Look Book – just in time for Holiday!
The concept: off Kensington’s swinging High Street, and into the artists studio go two muses – one light, one dark… possessed with the eccentric allure of rock star girlfriends, rivaling the strength of Gaelic warriors, the dark glamour of high priestesses, their closets heaped to the brim with opulent furs, tweeds, silks and sequins, bodies stacked with glittering metals and stones…
“…A silver sword by an ancient ford was my gift from this child of the trees…” Painting by Alexander Rokoff. On Haley: Vintage “Harper” blouse, $78. “Divine” green agate and onyx necklace by Brehan Todd, $199. “Triple Serpent” necklace by Jesseca Anne, $65. Vintage “Hollis” tweed skirt, $42. On Annie: “Hel” earrings by Jesseca Anne, $45. Vintage “Autumnal Daphne” dress, $145. “Woven Conversation” necklace by Sahlia. “Torched and Tied” necklace by Sahlia. “Metropolis” necklace by Jesseca Anne, $95. “Pharoah” ring by Jesseca Anne, $45. “Prophecy” rings by Jesseca Anne in black (one worn on each hand,) $30. Silver sequin belt on loan from stylist Ryan White.
“…Torch girl of the marshes, her kiss is the whip of the moon…” Paintings in progress by artist Alexander Rokoff. On Haley: “Noir Princess” hat by Brehan Todd, $54. Vintage “Silver Geometry” cocktail dress, $85. “Rosette” necklace by Kiowa Rose, $550. “Prophecy” ring by Jesseca Anne in green, $30. On Annie: “Coral Byzantine” earrings by Jan Michaels $108. Vintage “Chestnut” fur coat (shown in second photo,) $145. Vintage “Peach Bellini” dress, $135. “Coral Fascination” necklace by Kiowa Rose, $95. “Madeleine” long pendant necklace by Brehan Todd, $112. Vintage magenta velvet ribbon (used as belt.) Vintage “Creme de Cocoa” belt, $36. “Noir Armor” cuff bracelet by Brehan Todd, $82.
“…Chariots of silk she rode, stallions of gold she owned…” On Annie: Rhinestone earrings by Brehan Todd, $108. Vintage “Madrigal” wrap dress, SOLD. “Elouise” statement necklace by Brehan Todd, $175. “Cyborg” necklace by Jesseca Anne, $65. Brass cuff bracelet by Mishakaudi, $42. “Wish Upon a Star” cuff bracelet by Brehan Todd, $70.00. “Prophecy” ring by Jesseca Anne in green, $30. Druzy ring by Jesseca Anne, $50. Vintage Butterfly in glass apothecary jar, $68. Gorgeous George the Peacock, $1800.
“…A mask of jade I shyly laid to thy form of finery – a root of star, baby…” On Haley: Vintage hat on loan from stylist Ryan White. Vintage “Shake Senora” blouse, SOLD. Vintage “Liesel Dancing” vest, $38. “Cairo” necklace by Kiowa Rose, SOLD. “Prophecy” ring by Jesseca Anne in black, $30.
“…Oh Debora, always look like a zebra, Oh Debora, always dressed like a conjurer…” Painting by Alexander Rokoff. On Haley: Vintage Red Fur hood, $52. Vintage “Catalina” dress, $185. “Mandala” necklace by Pure Jewelry, $260. “Sterling Silver Crochet Cuff” by Pure Jewelry, $680. Vintage tambourine, $78. Jeffrey Campbell Lita Boots provided by Solestruck. On Annie: “Louisa” chandelier earring in green agate by Acanthus, $96. Vintage “Osaka Noir” silk robe, $165. Vintage “Belle Felicidade” sequin leotard, $66. Vintage Turkish necklace, $95. ”Biba Primavera” necklace by Brehan Todd, SOLD. “Nagini” cuff by Urchin Redesign, $165. Boots and socks, Annie’s own. Oscar the vintage papier-mâché Zebra, $185. Vintage wingback armchair, one of set of two, $325 each.
“…Take me down to Sensation Boulevard…” On Annie: “Hanging Gardens” earrings by Jan Michaels, $110. Vintage “Moi Aussi” dress, $68. “Hanging Gardens” necklace by Jan Michaels, $85. Black and Aqua Fringe necklace by Kiowa Rose, $145. “Arachne” crocheted cuff, $68. “Noir Armor” cuff bracelet by Brehan Todd, $82. “Pharoah” ring by Jesseca Anne, $45. On Haley: “Golden Shield” earrings by Ay Marieke, $60. Fur vest and vintage sequin shorts on loan from stylist Ryan White. Vintage “Pointelle Peaks” strapless top, $38. “Wish Upon a Star” necklace by Brehan Todd, $72. “Maria” necklace by Jesseca Anne, $65. “Freder” bracelets by Jesseca Anne, $60. Bangle bracelet set by Jesseca Anne, $45. Druzy ring by Jesseca Anne, $50.
“…The Huntress stands, with peacock hands she’d take me to where she’d lie…” On Annie: Vintage tulle and peacock feather veil, on loan from stylist Ryan White. Sterling silver cross earrings by Pure Jewelry, $280. ”1000 Cranes” dress by Ms. Wood, $1300.
“…Like a white star, tangled and far, Tulip that’s what you are…” On Annie: Vintage “Madcap Coral” cloche, $42. ”Biba Primavera” necklace by Brehan Todd, SOLD. Annie is surrounded by assorted Vintage Suzani pillows, made exclusively for Eden by Lees Lamar.
*For more information on items featured above and to purchase, please refer to links to our website. Where links are unavailable, please call (503) 222-2285 or email customerservice [at] edenportland.com
Many incredibly talented ladies and one (incredibly out-numbered) man lent their hands to making this shoot a success. We were happy to include some familiar faces from our Fall 2011 Look Book: Annie Montgomery, the photographer then, is the model now. Former behind-the-scenes photographer Anja Verdugo acted as lead photographer, models Consuelo Wise and Marika Emerson helped style along with last year’s stylists Brehan Todd and Jesseca McCloskey. And of course, proprietress Cindy Rokoff furnished the incredible vintage goods, props and acted as Art Director.
Art direction: Cindy Rokoff
Lead photographer: Anja Verdugo
Behind-the-scenes and detail photographer: Carlie Armstrong
Models: Annie Montgomery and Haley Robison
Hair: Jessica Adams
Makeup: Firiel Harbin
Styling and set design: Ryan White, Jesseca McCloskey, Brehan Todd, Consuelo Wise, Marika Emerson.
Shoes provided by Solestruck PDX.
Caption quotes are Marc Bolan (T. Rex) lyrics.
We’re tremendously excited to announce an upcoming trunk show featuring three very talented local designers!
On October 4th, to coincide with First Thursday, we’ll be offering first dibs on three incredible and really unique accessory, clothing and jewelry collections: Reif by Lindsey Reif, Ann-Ya by Anja Verdugo and Jesseca Anne by Jesseca McCloskey. Add to that fortune telling courtesy of Psychic Siamese Terror, cocktails and snacks, dance tunes, and of course, a fashion show… it’s going to be so much fun!
You’re invited – please join us to preview these designers incredible fall collections, have your fortune read and welcome the change of season and advent of fall!
Previously, we interviewed Jess about her jewelry design and the launch of line Jesseca Anne (which you can read here.) Anja’s photography has appeared on our blog before: she took some phenomenal behind-the-scenes photos for the Eden Look Book we shot last fall; she also designs and sews clothing and accessories for a (semi-) eponymous line, Ann-Ya. Lindsey Reif is a clothing and accessories designer whose designs channel a vintage influence with urban appeal, balanced with a regard to natural landscapes.
We asked each of these talented ladies a handful of questions about inspirations, trends and what they’re looking forward to as we turn the corner into fall:
Eden: In regards to your newest / most recent collection, from where have you drawn inspiration?
Lindsey Reif: My most recent collection was inspired by 60s French Ye-Ye singers, in particular Francoise Hardy. The thing I love the most about these ladies is they appear to be sweet but are really no-nonsense, cool chicks, which is the type of woman I design for. The song that I used for my video lookbook, “Laisse tomber les Filles” by France Gall, is all about a girl who is tired of getting played and she’s telling the guy that he’d better stop breaking girl’s hearts or he’s going to find his broken one day.
Anja Verdugo: The pieces that I am creating for Eden will be unique to the shop, and I am definitely being influenced by the aura of dark beauty that inspires the space. The vision powering this collection is that of an old rose found within a charred, post-apocalyptic environment, preserved but imperfect. A memory of beauty in a harsh environment.
Jesseca McCloskey: My biggest inspiration this season came from watching the 1927 film, Metropolis. I have always been drawn to style of the 1920′s and l instantly fell in love with this 1920′s version of the future! I’m also forever inspired by art deco and art nouveau jewelry and strive to reinterpret those classic styles in new, modern ways.
Design by Reif.
Eden: Can you talk a little bit about the creative process of conceiving and executing this collection?
Lindsey: I usually go through and collect images that I like from the internet and magazines, and then I organize them into categories, like era or mood. Then I just let things develop organically – I’ll usually design one key inspiration piece for a collection, and then the rest just seem to flow around that. Right now I sew everything myself, so it’s a very hands on process – I spend a lot of time with each garment.
Anja: I’ve been inspired by dark textures and shapes, and the way that they can be infinitely combined, working together to create a subtle but powerful aesthetic. I’ve been searching extensively for the right materials, and have allowed them to dictate my design choices.
Jess: This one actually surprised me since I wasn’t trying to design a new collection when the inspiration struck… I was just trying to be lazy and watch a movie! But as soon as I started watching Metropolis I was flooded with ideas (I kept having to pause it to sketch!). The sketches that I made while watching the film are the foundation pieces of the collection and I’ve built upon them as I’ve sourced materials. I chose to use some semi-precious stones this time like labradorite, pyrite and green adventurine and I’m so excited to share it with you!
Eden: What type of style might the person who wears / carries your designs possess?
Lindsey: The woman that wears my pieces isn’t a slave to trends, yet still likes to look modern and relevant. She has a solid idea of her own personal style and isn’t afraid to take a risk and wear something edgy like studded shoes with a vintage dress or bold accessories. Overall her style is classic and effortless, and she buys pieces that she knows will be versatile in her wardrobe and look good for seasons to come.
Anja: They are a person who selects clothing and accessories thoughtfully, but decisively, understanding their own personal talismans and what makes them feel powerful. It’s less about the exact styles and more focused on the idea that aesthetically-driven people can pinpoint certain things that they want to channel and the way they dress can help to draw these things up from within. I want people to wear or carry my pieces when they feel that it belongs with them, working in unison with their existing selves and adding to their personal magic.
Jess: I love the range I’ve seen in the type of women who wear my designs. I think my jewelry appeals to women who possess their own unique sense of style. My ladies pay attention to the current trends but don’t often care to follow them. They like to set themselves apart from the crowd and know that the secret to a great outfit is all about the jewelry!
Design by Ann-Ya.
Eden: What styles are you excited to wear or see as the weather cools down and people start dressing for fall?
Lindsey: I’ve been seeing a ton of galaxy prints and I love them. I am excited to see people rocking that print on leggings and bodycon dresses. Also, VELVET EVERYTHING.
Anja: In the winter I love dressing in shades of black and gray, multi-layers and different textures that work together to make me feel ultimately comfortable and in my zone. In Portland I think it is a lifelong project to create your ultimate winter look, since protection from the rain is so crucial. I’m still working on my perfect suit of armor.
Jess: Fall has long been my favorite time of year and I can’t wait to start layering again! I’m always a fan of over-sized tops and cozy sweaters, wedges and lots of jewels! Anja recently described her style inspiration as “Futuristic Flapper” (a concept that definitely relates to my new collection!)… I would absolutely love to see more people interpret that style!
Mark your calendars for October 4th… see you there!